By Kari Herbert, Sep 15 2016 02:43PM
"The way I see it, the further north you go, the better it gets," the old timer tells us as we fill up with fuel at Grand Marais, an end-of-the-road town in northern Michigan, on the shore of Lake Superior. A brutal cold wind whips in off the lake, direct from the Canadian wilderness. Among the huddle of buildings is a small brewery and an outfitting store (We Welcome Hunters and Trappers). Further up, a clapboard house is, appropriately, called End of the Trail.
We have driven more than 1,000 miles to get here, to the very edge of the US. To give our two-year-old daughter, Nell, the experience of being in the wilds, my husband and I have brought her on a road trip through Michigan, to its remote Upper Peninsula, on a route rated one of North America's best for autumn colour. We are in effect circumnavigating Lake Michigan, with a few detours.